Plus, the fluid cannot have emulsifiers in it, because we want all water to stay on the bottom of the reservoir. I remember that a long time ago, some fluid was taken off the recommended list because the dye in it was chemically active. What we are looking for in the fluid for the top, is something highly refined with fairly equal viscosity over a wide temperature range (and the thinner the fluid, the faster your top will move with the fluid going through 1.8-mm ID lines), and without damaging additives. Do you have anything you could share with us all?Ĭhances are that it's okay. And I found the filler plug did need to be torqued down hard b/c I tried it reasonably tight with the hex wrench in case I had to get to it again but it squirted fluid everywhere! Luckily the synthetic fluid doesn't eat paint but it will unglue your headliner.Ĭlick to expand.SLKSport, I have done a lot of searching to check CHF 11S' compatibility with the system, and haven't found any conclusive answers. Replacing the 1 seal was about an 8 hr job for me. You can have the cylinder(s) replaced for core or use the ebay kit with o-rings and instructions (well worth it) I know cup seals used in the replacement cyls are more "correct" but o-rings have lasted for me and replacing the whole cylinder requires removing the hydraulic lines back to the pump since the lines are permanently attached. I found the synthetic hydraulic fluid, Pentosin CHF 11S, under $20 USD at local auto zone or advance auto, forget which, but you can check availability on their websites not all locations stocked it, funny the one across the street from the MB dealer did. Any yellow stains or rippling on your headliner? It's easy to remove the headliner assembly to check and probably worth doing before fluid ruins headliner. If it's much below the bottom line there is probably a leak in the system, probably from the cylinder that latches the front of top to windshield frame. Note the reservoir gets only about half filled (there are two level lines fluid show be between). But the question is why is the fluid very low. Presumably as the hot coolant cooled overnight in the catch reserve tank it dropped in volume as it returned to the block and pulled the float down until it stuck in the "low" position and triggered the sensor, or at least I am scratching my head and guessing that in the absence of a better explanation.I couldn't get the filler plug to loosen with hex wrench (5mm as I recall) so I had to remove the trim and metal plate to get vice grips on the outer edge of the filler plug. There are no obvious signs of any leaks, nor have there been any signs of overheating or even reaching 100C in operation. I added extra coolant until the float pressed up against the hole, blocking further fluid addition as stated in the manual I had the coolant flushed a couple months ago and whether they didn't add quite enough, or the level dropped as trapped air bubbles eventually worked their way up to the top, I don't know. I stick my finger down against it and it pops up to float about 1/4 inch under the flat sealing hole where the pressure cap rubber gasket presses, and the sensor warning goes out when the engine is restarted. Although there is clearly a fair amount of MB antifreeze in the catch tank, the internal plastic "float" right under the pressure cap seems to be sunk down into the conical chamber containing the sensor. I send her off in the other car and start looking to see what I find. This morning the wife is getting a coolant sensor warning after starting the car.
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